Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek
“Not Your Mama’s Carbonara”
When I first started writing about local restaurants in the South Okanagan, it wasn’t easy. In fact, it was downright difficult to find restaurants willing to let me write about them and their food, especially when all I had was my word that these articles were meant to highlight, not criticize.
Thankfully, after my first review on DOSA in Osoyoos, word started to spread. Restaurant owners, chefs, and customers became much more open to having me visit—or even started recommending places themselves.
One of those recommendations was Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek in Oliver, BC. While it’s best known as a winery and a popular stop on local wine tours, the restaurant itself is worth the visit for the view alone.
I’ve eaten at Miradoro many times and never had a bad meal. It positions itself as “elevated dining” but without the fine-dining price tag or the need for a suit and tie. If you’ve never been, it’s probably my favourite spot in the Okanagan for both lunch and dinner. And if you’ve got friends or family visiting who’ve never been to the region, this is the kind of place you take them to create a lasting memory.
Though the restaurant is separately owned and operated from the winery, the menu proudly features Tinhorn Creek wines and showcases fresh, local ingredients. Executive Chef Jeff Van Geest and Chef de Cuisine Jason Malloff have put together a menu that balances recognizable favourites with unexpected twists.
Polpette – beef and pork meatballs in rich tomato sauce, arugula & Parmesan.
Unable to decide what to order – because everything sounded so good – I asked the chef to bring me his favourites. First up: the meatball appetizer. One large meatball made with a beef and pork mix, smothered in homemade tomato sauce, and topped with Parmesan.
The texture was what really blew me away. It was soft and tender but somehow held together perfectly. I’d never had a meatball quite like it. Curious, I asked Chef Van Geest how they pulled it off. He smiled and said it was a secret family recipe – but did let slip that ricotta cheese plays a key role. I went home and tried to recreate it 30 different ways (spoiler alert: I failed).
Black Pepper Carbonara – spaghetti alla chitarra, smoked pork jowl, ample black pepper, cured egg yolk, arugula.
Next came the Pasta Carbonara, one of my all-time favourite dishes – something I cook regularly at home. The first thing you notice? The portion size. It’s generous and easily shareable.
This dish, without question, falls into the “signature” or “showstopper” category. From the first bite, it’s clear – this is not your mama’s carbonara.
This is carbonara-ish – with some bold changes that elevate it into something entirely its own. Instead of pancetta, Chef Van Geest uses pork jowl. Instead of a runny egg yolk, a cured yolk is shaved over the top. The result is familiar yet inventive, and honestly, I’d be happy if this became the new standard definition of carbonara.
But the most dominant – and delightful – flavour? Pepper.
Pepper lovers, rejoice. The fresh cracked and cooked pepper brings in elements of cacio e pepe and blends seamlessly with the rich pork and cheese. It’s a perfect balance of sharp, salty, and savoury. I can’t recommend this dish enough – it excels in both concept and execution.
Dark Chocolate Budino – sponge toffee, peanut butter mousse (the best dessert in the South Okanagan says Sheldon).
I could write another two pages just on how great that pasta was – but I’ve already exceeded my word count, and I haven’t even told you about the Peanut Butter and Chocolate Mousse served with house made sponge toffee, which I’d argue is the best dessert in the South Okanagan.
Or the wood-fired pizzas, which might also be the best in the region. Or, most importantly, the Tuesday Long Table Dinners – a weekly rotating themed dinner with special guests and celebrity chefs, all for just $49. An absolute steal of a deal and extremely ambitious to try and do on a weekly basis, but Chef Van Geest has given me no reason to believe that he and his team won’t knock it out of the park.
So next time you’re looking for a memorable lunch or dinner spot, a date night destination, or a place to impress the in-laws – head to Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek and tell them Sheldon sent you.
Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek is located at 537 Tinhorn Creek Road, Oliver and is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., seven days a week.
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Sheldon Herman is the author of the international best-selling book The Tortured Traveller: How I Survived The Worst Vacation Ever and has travelled to and eaten in 60 different countries. Neither the writer nor the newspaper received financial compensation for this article; the thoughts and opinions expressed are strictly those of the writer. If you’re a restaurant owner or have a suggestion for one you’d like to see featured, please send an email to [email protected].
