When life gives you frozen grapes, make ice wine
It was the night of ice wine picking and outside Gehringer’s house, not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse – or one that you could see.
What you could see was an impressive operation that moved swiftly and silently during two consecutive nights at the home of Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery, during the unique time of ice wine harvest which a handful of people witness and fewer may ever experience.
The Gehringer brothers, Gordon and Walter, are the proprietors of this estate winery that encompasses acres of vineyard along the southwest bench of the “Golden Mile” where they produce 22 wines, including three signature ice wines. Both brothers are included in a select group of qualified winemakers who are born in BC but learned their craft in Europe, in this case, Germany.
This past week I participated in the annual ritual that consists of a minimum temperature of -8 C, some serious tractor lighting, clippers, wheelbarrows, and a team of workers from all walks of life willing to brave the cold in the wee hours of the morning to harvest the grapes that would be squeezed into a dessert wine.
According to the British Columbia Wine Authority, ice wine in general terms, is made from grapes that have been frozen on the vine. Only the water in grapes freezes, not the grape sugars, thus pressing the frozen grapes results in a smaller amount of much sweeter juice and subsequently, very sweet “dessert-style” wines. Because of the labour and risk involved in making a relatively small amount of wine, ice wines tend to be more expensive than regular table wines.
At Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery, they grow three variety of grapes – Ehrenfelser, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc to make their ice wines that are available and sold to BC, Alberta, and China. Of note is the Cabernet Franc ice wine, a red ice wine that is fairly unique, since traditionally ice wines have been white.
Michelle Starcic, a local organic inspector, personal friend, and long-time ice wine picker enthusiast introduced me to the notion of getting up in the middle of the night during sub-freezing temperatures to experience this phenomenon.
When asked what draws her to participate in such an extreme method of grape picking, she stated, “It’s amazing to participate in the fun yearly event. As the picking is usually in the middle of the night and very cold, it creates a fun atmosphere with lots of camaraderie and cups of hot chocolate. Then you get to warm up and not do it again until next year!”
Gordon Gehringer, co-proprietor, who oversaw the operation for the two nights, admitted the process is risky. “The biggest challenge for producing ice wine is the weather and the gamble to produce it. In the 23 years we’ve been doing this, mother nature has had us harvesting as early as October 31 one year, and as late as Valentine’s Day in another.”
November, in Gordon’s opinion, is optimal, but regardless, the Gehringer brothers have over the years remained consistent with the amount of ice wine they produce. I was particularly impressed with the swift execution and clear direction that was given by Gordon. He quickly knew every one of his pickers by name, frequently came through the rows to give further direction on best practices for picking, while offering words of encouragement. People moved swiftly, helped each other complete their tasks, and a sense of family was established in a short amount of time.
When the shift was completed, warm beverages and treats were available to the team. Overall, I was completely blown away by the professionalism, attention to detail, care and consideration that Gehringer displayed. Would I do it again? Well, I did go back for the second night, and pulled off my regular day job without any incidences, so perhaps. I guess we’ll see if the memories of the sleep deprivation and cold toes will fade in 12 months, but the experience of being part of such an unusual harvest will last a lifetime.
And although I rarely have ice wine, this holiday season I may even indulge in a glass as I toast to two brothers, their staff, the seasonal workers, and a whole lot of frozen grapes.
What’s coming up?
Wed Nov 19th – SOCC Business Showcase, Stoneboat Vineyards, everyone welcome. 5:30-7:30 pm
Friday Nov 21st – Rapunzel, Missoula Children’s Theatre, Frank Venables Theatre 7 pm
Fri – Sat Nov 21/22nd – 38th annual Oliver Arts and Crafts Fair, Oliver Community Centre
Sat Nov 22nd – Celebration of Caring Hands, Desert Hospice Society fundraiser, Frank Venables foyer, 7 pm
Life is hectic and everyone is busy. Take the time to get out and about, and enjoy what is around you – you’ll be glad you did.
Marji Basso
Oliver Chronicle
