Vagabond Kitchen
“It Takes Two”

Before I started writing these weekly highlights, the first place I wanted to feature was Vagabond Kitchen in Oliver. It’s the giant stainless-steel food truck parked at Oliver Eats – and no, you can’t miss it. But since they close during the winter months, I had to wait until spring/summer for their reopening. I’m very happy to say: that time is now.

One of the greatest developments in food over the past 20 years has been the meteoric rise of the food truck scene. It gave talented chefs a chance to serve their best dishes without the massive financial risk of opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant – where, statistically, most fail within the first two years. Food trucks made great food more accessible, gave chefs more freedom, and allowed for flexible schedules.

That’s exactly why the owners/operators of Vagabond Kitchen took the plunge – and we, the people of Osoyoos and Oliver, are the lucky beneficiaries.

I had the pleasure of speaking with owners and partners Vivian Fung and Graeme Uhlemann to learn more about their story and their menu and I use the catch phrase “It takes two” because Graeme and Vivian are the only two employees and you will see Vivian literally running back and forth and Graeme cooking non-stop and the success of the business relies on both of them working together at maximum effort every single shift.

If Graeme’s last name sounds familiar, it should. Despite being a repeat customer of both Vagabond Kitchen and Oliver Eats for years, I somehow never realized that Graeme is the brother of Derek from Oliver Eats. Once I connected the dots, it all made more sense: the food truck parked at Oliver Eats, and the shared passion and talent for food – it clearly runs in the family.

Graeme and Vivian met while working at Miradoro in Oliver (coincidentally, the restaurant I featured last week). Graeme worked in the kitchen, and Vivian was front-of-house. Over time, they honed their skills and started a family together.

Graeme always dreamed of running a food truck, where he could cook the food he loved and still maintain a work-life balance. That dream became a reality when they found a custom-made Airstream motorhome – built by an aerospace company, no less. Only eight of these trucks were ever made, and Graeme and Vivian now operate the last functioning one. Since launching in 2016, it’s been the heart and soul of Vagabond Kitchen.

I asked about the name “Vagabond Kitchen,” and Graeme explained that a vagabond is someone who wanders from place to place without a fixed home or stable employment. The name perfectly fits their lifestyle: a mobile kitchen that lets them choose when and where to work.

I admit, I often overlook restaurant names – just like I did with The Ditch Café – but hearing the meaning behind “Vagabond Kitchen” changed that. Now I want to ask every restaurant I visit about the story behind their name; it really does enhance the dining experience.

Now, on to my favourite part of Vagabond Kitchen: the food.

I don’t make guarantees lightly – but this is one of those rare occasions. The Nashville Hot Chicken Sandwich is, without a doubt, the best spicy chicken sandwich in the Okanagan. In fact, I’ll go further: I haven’t had a better one in any of the 60 countries I’ve visited. That’s a bold claim, I know – but if you’ve found a better one, please email me and prove me wrong.

Don’t let the word “spicy” scare you off, either. If you’re like me and prefer a milder experience, you can ask for it “not spicy.” Graeme won’t be mad – but be prepared for a disappointed look.

Of course, if you want to avoid that “not mad, just disappointed” expression entirely, go for their other signature dish: the pork belly steam buns. They’re a personal favorite of both Graeme and myself. Nowhere else in the Okanagan will you find them, and they’re an impeccable balance of umami flavor with soft and crispy textures that make every bite worth bragging about.

A word of advice: don’t dawdle. Vagabond Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. until they sell out – and they do sell out, often by 2 p.m. This isn’t by accident. Vivian and Graeme keep limited quantities on purpose, which helps manage prep time, reduce food waste, and maintain a consistent, sustainable business.

So, if you’re up for the challenge of proving me wrong about that chicken sandwich – or if you just want to experience some of the best food in the valley – get to Vagabond Kitchen early, and tell them Sheldon sent you.

Vagabond Kitchen is located at 6060 Station Street, Oliver, and is open Tuesday to Friday, 11 a.m. to sellout.

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Sheldon Herman is the author of the international best-selling book The Tortured Traveller: How I Survived The Worst Vacation Ever, and has traveled to (and eaten in) 60 different countries. Neither the writer nor the newspaper received financial compensation for this article. The thoughts and opinions expressed are strictly those of the writer. If you’re a restaurant owner or have a suggestion for one you’d like to see featured, please send an email to [email protected].

Check out the eateries we’ve featured so far.